Meet The Table Bay’s culinary Bruce Lee

Lindsay Venn’s instalment as Executive Chef at The Table Bay heralds a new era for the iconic establishment, as it seeks to build on its incredible legacy. It’s an opportunity that the Capetonian, who had served as Executive Sous Chef in a prior stint, is clearly relishing.

Born in Athlone, Venn discovered a passion for cooking born out of sympathy for his working mother while completing his schooling in Mitchell’s Plain.

“I was 14 when I began helping out my mother in the kitchen. It began on Sundays, but I soon began cooking throughout the week. I experimented with Cape Malay cuisine – your curries, stews, boboties, and basic comfort food,” he says.

His parents drove him to explore culinary avenues, but he was restricted initially to doing pastry courses at the Western Cape Training College in the dark days of apartheid. Raised to be tough and with a relentless work ethic, “Sunshine” – he earned the nickname on account of being ready to go as the sun came up – landed a gig at the trendy Scoozi restaurant in Claremont. He would go on to cut his culinary teeth over six years at the bustling eatery.

Baptism of fire

“I had a baptism of fire, taking ‘bullets’ from the French and German chefs who taught me early on about kitchen discipline. I’ve never been shy to work and was eager to learn, so I applied myself, arriving early and even spending time in the scullery,” says Venn.

He recalls that with little money to spare for extra sets of clothing, he would spend many late nights washing his soiled aprons and jackets in the bath in preparation for the next high-pressure shift.

The Scoozi introduction kicked off a storied career that included stints at The Table Bay and The Palace of the Lost City as a replacement for the Dubai-bound Nicolas Smalberger, and Southern Sun’s flagship The Cullinan property. Along the way, he served up fine fare to F1 drivers in Camps Bay while operating his own catering concern during the COVID-19 lockdown and made a name for himself at Beluga, once one of the top 20 restaurants in the world.

The fire still burns

Three decades into his career and at the helm of the kitchen of a leading hotel of the world in his second stint at The Table Bay, the fire still burns for the 49-year-old culinary artist. He’s set himself and his young team a number of targets for The Table Bay, where the maritime heritage, architecture, and paintings provide a constant reminder of a demanding legacy.

“We want to restore our High Tea to its former glory and are looking at more convenient, high-calibre dining options for the Lounge, where the seating arrangements suit pick-up-and-eat meals. I like exciting, flavoursome, perfectly pan-Asian, pan-African cuisine. The idea is to take South African food on a new journey without overcomplicating palates and while introducing global trends,” he explains.

The first signal of the Venn menu shake-up was his take on a traditional Easter classic. His calamari pickled with fish spice, served warm, was well received by guests over a rainy holiday period – and he promises that this is just a “starter” of things to come.

Plating up the next generation

Venn may have but people have always been as important as the palate. Mindful of an acute skills shortage in the country brought on by lucrative opportunities in the Middle East and on cruise ships, he is intent on moulding his team into one capable of expressing themselves to the highest standards. Praise, patience, and setting the example are hallmarks of his leadership style.

“I enjoy empowering and guiding my staff, giving them the confidence to express themselves and build their personal brands. I didn’t always have this freedom myself. It’s a long-term investment in building skills. The reward comes later when they are able to teach others and I can focus on other things, like interacting with guests,” says Venn.

The long-time mentor has seen his students take up roles in Michelin-starred restaurants in France, on luxury cruises, and acclaimed eateries across the globe. Their achievements, rather than any personal plaudits, remain a source of satisfaction for Venn.

In charting a strategic career path, Venn took inspiration from an unusual source. “I had read Bruce Lee’s book and adapted his mentality to my career. He always mastered something, going from master to master, before creating his own style. I want to go to restaurants where I could give my all and learn new skills from the chef – even if it was at a lower salary,” explains Venn, adding that he scanned the Food & Home magazine every month to compile a list of chefs with whom he wanted to work.

It’s no surprise to learn that the father of two is as strategic about his downtime as he is about his career. “I love running. It allows me to clear my mind of negativity. I also enjoy swimming in the ocean and just being in touch with nature. Let loose on those things in life that make you feel it’s wonderful to be alive.”

Guests of The Table Bay can expect to get a taste of that joie de vivre when they tuck into one of Venn’s creations.